Somm scandal, Crook's Corner, new media, old plywood, and more...
Family Meal - Friday, October 12th, 2018
Hello Friday,
And hello from Washington, D.C., where as of this very morning, it is fall.
Let’s get to it…
Scandal at the Court – October 9th Press Release: “The Board of Directors of the Court of Master Sommeliers, Americas unanimously voted to invalidate the results of the tasting portion of the 2018 Master Sommelier Diploma Examination for all candidates due to clear evidence that a Master breached the confidentiality with respect to the wines presented for tasting.”
The Next Steps: Per Esther Mobley in the SF Chronicle: “The announcement snatches away the MS title from 23 of the newly anointed sommeliers… On Oct. 10, the CMS announced that the 23 candidates will have two chances to re-take the test, one later in 2018 and another in spring or summer 2019. The testing fees for the tasting portion of the 2018 exam, and all fees for these subsequent exams, will be refunded, and assistance with travel expenses will be offered.”
The Fallout: Via Joseph Hernandez in the Chicago Tribune: “Nineteen of the 23 candidates whose titles were stripped away do not find this a fitting solution and have communicated their umbrage to the Court in a letter obtained by the Chicago Tribune… The letter from the 19 sommeliers specifically named a board member currently listed on the Court of Master Sommeliers website, saying the person ‘broke the Code of Ethics and Conduct set forth by the Court,’ but stopped short of accusing the person of leaking information to candidates… In a separate email… the sommeliers write: ‘Can we all be certain that this breach hasn’t happened before with this same individual on the Board? We ask that a thorough investigation be conducted to clear the names of those of us who passed fairly, and who have been unjustly grouped under an umbrella of those who may have compromised the examination.’”
The Rumors: Don Kavanagh and Robert Meyers say in wine-searcher that there has only been one name removed from the CMS website recently, though Esther Mobley cautions against this “irresponsible” speculation.
Crook’s Corner Corner – “Crook’s Corner, the beloved Chapel Hill restaurant that elevated shrimp and grits from a humble fisherman’s breakfast to a signature of Southern cuisine, is changing hands and beginning another chapter in its storied 36-year history. Owner Gene Hamer and executive chef Bill Smith, a leader in the Southern food renaissance, are handing over the restaurant to a small group that includes star mixologist Gary Crunkleton of The Crunkleton, who is opening a second location in Charlotte this winter, and former Crook’s general manager Shannon Healy, who now owns Alley Twenty Six in Durham.” Full story, including video of Smith discussing the changes, from Kathleen Purvis and Drew Jackson in the Charlotte Observer.
The Suits – In Portland, OR, “Prominent restaurant owner Scott Dolich owes more than $580,000 to 41 former employees for the practice of tip pooling. A Multnomah County jury decided that the owner of Park Kitchen must pay employees back for six years of tips that were taken and split among kitchen staff, salaried managers and the general manager.” Story in the Oregonian. Eater Portland says total fines may add up to almost $1M.
Some sad news from former Top Chef contestant Fatima Ali, “The cancer cells my doctors believed had vanished are back with a vengeance in my left hip and femur bone. My oncologist has told me that I have a year to live, with or without the new chemotherapy regimen. I was looking forward to being 30, flirty, and thriving. Guess I have to step it up on the flirting. I have no time to lose.” Read her essay in Bon Appétit, and send her something special from the kitchen if you see her.
The Comeback – Per Eater SF, “Charlie Hallowell, an Oakland chef accused of sexual harassment by more than 30 employees according to the San Francisco Chronicle, has issued a long letter of apology addressed to the Oakland community in which he appears to outline a plan to return to restaurants after a 10 month absence. That plan includes real changes — such as adding Donna Insalaco, who joined Hallowell’s restaurant company in April, as an outright co-owner and managing partner — alongside trivializing suggestions like subjecting himself to a ‘dunk tank’ at the mercy of employees.” Apparently when an employee hits the target, Charlie will fall into a vat of pizza dough cinnamon rolls. (Sarcasm emoji.) Wheeeeeeeee.
Speaking of absurd – Here’s something “absurdly simple” from The New Yorker’s Helen Rosner: To help combat sexual harassment in the workplace, start by putting up a poster to make clear what the problem is and how employees can / should deal with it. The evolution of the idea, rationale for it, and links to download posters of your own are in this piece from Wednesday.
The Lists – The World’s 50 Best Bars 2018 is out, with Dandelyan in London taking the number one spot just two days after announcing it will close. Lists shmists, but personally happy to see my favorite swank cocktail bar in Hong Kong, The Old Man, come in at number 10 as the Highest New Entry in its first year open.
The Media – “Gabe Hiatt is the new editor of Eater DC. Gabe has been a sports reporter and editor at The Washington Post and its Express publication for several years now.” Twitter @gabecito. Instagram @gabehiatt (with several recent full pics for hosts.)
The Media Too – Has everyone heard of Goldthread? It’s the South China Morning Post’s new video-driven in-house media startup focused on telling the story of Asia (and especially China) through the eyes of locals, descendants, and the diaspora, with a special interest in food as a cultural access point. Chefs looking to do some writing / filming, this could be your place: Per Clarissa Wei on Twitter, “@Goldthread2 is actively looking for freelancers. Articles &/or videos welcome. Email Gavin.Huang@scmp.com if you’re interested!”
“How to be pregnant in the restaurant industry” – Erin Smith of Feges BBQ in Houston got very candid (shout out to Preparation H) in Food & Wine this week: “We have one office in our restaurant. It will soon double as a pump room. I even plan to have a sign made that when lit says ‘Pump Room: Enter at your own risk!’ Yes, I realize that will be inconvenient for others. So. Is. Breastfeeding. Deal with it.”
The Investor – Eater’s Stefanie Tuder has this longish read on Stephen Ross and his RSE Ventures, the private firm backing Momofuku, Bluestone Lane, Milk Bar, &Pizza, Resy, and more. “[CEO Matt Higgins] says RSE in its current form has capacity for 10 restaurant concepts. That means there are six spots left in their roster — six eventual business people or brands that could grow to tons of locations with RSE’s money and connections…. He hasn’t said what they’re eyeing next, but they’re always looking.”
For design fans – Here’s the photo spread for Daniel Patterson’s new Alta Adams in LA. I would like to go on the record as being firmly against bare plywood as a trend outside construction zones, haunted houses, and/or necessity. Firmly. Against.
And last but not least – Chef Justin Bazdarich of Oxomoco recently got a call from actor Daniel Radcliffe, who was visiting The New Yorker’s famous fact-checking department to research a role. The resulting article is both a lot of fun and instructional (be prepared to push back!): “He took a breath. ‘Moving along: you also serve a beef-tartare tostada?’ (Correct.) ‘And that has some fried grasshopper on it?” (Actually, the insect is toasted over a wood fire, Bazdarich said. Radcliffe, his pencil trembling, scribbled ‘toasted.’) ‘And is that a whole grasshopper you get with each one, or is it sort of segments?’ (Whole, but sometimes they break apart.) ‘Would it be correct to say that meat is a major theme?’ Bazdarich seemed skeptical. Radcliffe, panicking, added, ‘Don’t worry, it is also made mention of that vegetarians or pescatarians can be very, very happy at your restaurants.’” Read to the end for the full effect.
And that’s it for today. District readers, if you see a well-rested dad and two incredibly well-behaved toddlers at your restaurant this weekend, that’s not us.
I’ll see you here Tuesday for next Family Meal.
And don’t forget to follow me on Twitter, and send tips and/or aggressively pro plywood takes to andrew@thisfamilymeal.com. If you like Family Meal and want to keep it going, please chip in here. If you got this as a forward, sign up for yourself! Most archives at thisfamilymeal.com for now.
P.S. New Yorker copy editors, I added a quotation mark after “tostada?” in the Radcliffe piece. It’s currently missing in the online version. #ineverwinthecaptioncontestandnitpickingthismakesmefeellessemptyinside